GSM Blog - read more about print on paper.

The Message Stick – Pauly Vandenbergh of Munda Wines

Munda Wines

Munda is the Wirangu and Kokatha word for land – “It’s our mother, our provider. If you look after munda, it’ll look after you.”

Munda wines

Munda Wines is an Aboriginal-owned wine company founded on deep cultural values and grounded in Country. Director and Co-Founder Pauly Vandenbergh, a proud Wirangu and Kokatha man, shares how he’s rewriting the narrative of wine in Australia — with integrity, purpose, and place at its heart.

 

More Than Terroir

Munda is the Wirangu and Kokatha word for land — and pre-dates the French notion of terroir by over 65,000 years.

“We don’t believe you can own land,” says Pauly. “It’s our mother, our provider. I was taught from a young age — care for the land first, then the animals and plants, and then your family. That’s the same philosophy that underpins Munda Wines.”

‘If you look after munda, it’ll look after you.’

Munda Wines is the only wine business in Australia to name its wines exclusively for the Traditional Countries that produced them. They have an aspiration to elevate and celebrate the history, culture and stories of the land behind the labels.

“The concept of munda is so rich and multi-layered,” says Pauly. “It’s not just the soil or the rainfall, it’s all the little intricacies and unique characteristics of that place – how the wind blows through a particular gully or the late afternoon sun warms a whole hillside.”

It’s this hyper-local knowledge that inspires Munda Wines to craft wines in the regions where they shine. “We believe that the munda is the reason why Grenache thrives in the Barossa, or why Margaret River Chardonnay is so revered. We want to capture that and use the wines as a vessel to tell the stories of that country.”

Grounded in Story

terroir mundaFor Pauly, munda is more than soil and climate. It’s a living presence — one that breathes, gives, and remembers.

“My ancestors have always cared for munda. They understood the seasons, adapted to the land, and respected its rhythm. And that’s what we’re trying to do too. We’ve partnered with some incredible winemakers who really get that. They’ve worked on Country for generations. They’ve seen the shifts, the climate changes, and they’ve evolved with it. That spirit of adaptation is something my people have lived for over 65,000 years.”

Ancient Craft, Modern Expression

Pauly is quick to note that fermentation is not new to Aboriginal culture. “We’ve had our own versions of fermentation for a long time. The palawa kani people of Tasmania made Wayalinah. A cider-like drink from the sap of cider gums which was used for ceremonial purposes. It’s likely that Aboriginal people were the first to ferment alcoholic beverages.”

While the Munda philosophy is contemporary, its winemaking foundations are more traditional. They are rooted in patience, observation, and care. The wines are made with an approach of minimal intervention: gentle handling, subtle oak, and early bottling to preserve freshness and character.

“Again, it’s about capturing that essence, the spirit of the munda,” says Pauly.

“We really want people to be able to taste the influence of the landscape in the wines.”

A Visual Story — on Every Bottle

wine labelA distinctive element of Munda Wines is its label design and branding. The intricate details of the label are inspired by Pauly’s own cultural ties to Wirangu and Kokatha Country on the far west coast of South Australia. With artwork that reflects landscapes, songlines, and sacred places that have shaped his people for generations.

More broadly, the overall label design is deliberately open to interpretation.

“We want to spark a conversation with Munda Wines. Having a label that invites questions and debate is absolutely part of that,” says Pauly. “Some people see an abstract representation of the Aboriginal flag, some people see the moon rising or the sun setting over the ocean. As long as they’re thinking and talking about it, I’m happy!”

Sharing the Table

Tjindu foundationAt its heart, Munda Wines is about creating connection. Not just for wine lovers, but for Aboriginal people seeking careers in the industry. Munda Wines work closely with another of Pauly’s organisations, the Tjindu Foundation, to offer training and employment opportunities for young Aboriginal people across winemaking, viticulture, marketing and hospitality.

“We’re also exploring how we can offer scholarship pathways for First Nations people to study winemaking at a tertiary level and bring through that next generation of leaders,” says Pauly.

“Fundamentally, we want to use Munda Wines as a catalyst for connection, engagement and storytelling,”

explains Pauly. “The wines themselves are beautiful – vibrant and expressive, but more than that, they’re a great way to kick off conversation about some really important topics. And hopefully create a greater understanding between my people and our care and custodianship for Country over thousands and thousands of years.”

GSM would like to thank Pauly Vandenbergh and Jess Greatwich, Munda Wines, for assisting us with writing this article.

This article was originally published in GSM24. To read this and other great articles purchase this issue here.